Thanks for the feedback on the blog it seems like it’s
getting the thumbs up and that the general consensus is that this is a real
“boys own” adventure! On that note yesterday has to be one of the most bizarre
days I have experienced here, in fact in my past 6 months of wanderings.
To set the scene we have a small mining lease on the top of
this 3600m high mountain, and there is some sort of I don’t know like warlord,
chieftan, business guy who walks around with 2 bodyguards who was instrumental
in bringing this project to our attention. There is only a small amount of coal here but
significant enough to supply a hungry domestic market for heating in their long
cold winters. So this was the official opening of the “mine”. The grand entrance by this guy was made on
this massive 50 year old ex-Soviet chopper, complete with our investors, this was followed up by a trail of officials
who drove up from the low country.
The celebrations were in the earthmoving contractors tent.
The centre of attention was this massive pot of boiled lamb – to me absolutely disgusting
and oozing with fat, but in Kyrgyzstan the more fat the better, a dish to be
dreams. There were a series of speeches led off by the Kyrgy dude and then our
people, then our representatives in Kyrgy and government officials, after each
speech there was a round of vodka or cognac which had to be sculled. All the time the Kyrgy dude had his boys
buzzing around taking photos/videos for the “international mass media”. In the meantime the lamb was divided up with
certain parts being given in priority, our MD was lucky enough to get the head!! Me, I just got these ribs with a 1” layer of
fat on it. I did a deal with my
colleague that if he ate my lamb I’d drink his vodka.. at the time seemed the
lesser of two evils.
The origins of the Kyrgy people is very much from the
invasion of the Mongols many centuries ago. You will have seen in the photos that majority
of people have this Asian/mongolian appearance (in fact my Phillipino offsider
is often taken for Kyrgy). Most of the “western” influence is from the Soviet
association of some 80 odd years ending in the mid 90’s. The European lot are
louder, brasher, more up-front and the asian/mongolian looking are more
reserved, polite and softly spoken. I guess considering its location people
have come from all directions, though there doesn’t seem to be much middle
eastern influence (other than the country being largely muslim!). Many of them
have this romantic attachment to the mountains, you ask them why they came to
work for us and they will say to get back in the mountains.
Being part of the old soviet republic has obviously had a
major effect on the place, Russian is the dominant language though most
educated people are bilingual with Kyrgyis and Russian with the traditional
Kyrgis language being related more to Turkish. Although mainly muslim there
seems to be a very low key approach to it and little sign of the bhirka type
dress for women, the nearest thing is a head scarf. People can be quite stand
offish which is probably my not understanding the greeting protocols, you can
pass a shepherd in the middle of nowhere and he will barely acknowledge you. I
don’t know what they think when I wave it is probably a very overt and offensive greeting – but I do it anyway.
Some of the characters… Tair is a larger than life “go do it
man”. Big and fat he seems the friendly bear but I’d hate to get on the wrong
side of him. He is the ex-KGB senior officer, knows the police, well connected
into government. I am taking over 100% for several weeks and he will be my
right hand man. This will be an
interesting management experience as he has strong opinions on how things
should be, I need to orchestrate some wins for him otherwise he is going to
hate being directed by me. He works and works and works, it is hard to get him
to take a day off. Or to stop him driving at 2am.
My driver and translator is Misha a 21yo, you’d think he’d
be the reckless kid but he is a great driver, very measured, if I had to choose
between them all he’s the one I’d have driving me in the mountains. He is blond
and blue eyed and a definite European, amazing maturity for a 21 yo having
worked as a tourist guide for 5 years. As an aside there is an interesting theory about
seat belts and the mountains, they tend to not wear them as the idea is if you
go over the edge you at least have a chance of jumping or being thrown clear, I
subscribe to that as there is no chance one would survive the ride to the
bottom it would be a mangled mess.
Anyway I’m off to Bishkek for the WE a very grey ex-Soviet
city with no charm what so ever. I think this is enough – attached another set
of photos so you don’t have to read the words.
No comments:
Post a Comment