Final steps & khaki

Well I survived the night in the fly camp.  It was so well managed with everything on a smaller scale compared to the main camp; food was still served and the beds (now mattresses on the ground) were turned down. A stunning location overlooking endless forest, there was a long drop and shower on the top of the hill with a modesty screen back to the camp but a view to die for over the Selous. The Tanzanians are absolutely terrified of being out in the bush and wanted the generator to run all night but it was reluctantly switched off at 9.30. When I went to bed the flaps were all up on the tent and for about 30 sec I thought “what would I do if I saw a big cat prowling through the camp?” but I was asleep before I got to the answer.

I am now back in Dar, really haven’t seen Dar, not sure that I’m interested as it’s a very big and very dirty city. The climate is a bit like Darwin, sticky at the best of time.  It is however the gateway to Zanzibar, hopefully next time.  I fly out tomorrow, with the trip time being something like 24hrs, via Dubai, getting into Melbourne about 1am on Sunday morning. As a treat I have taken myself down to the Seacliff Hotel (and casino I hate casinos would not have come if I had known). I have had a couple of G&T’s in a beautiful balmy evening.   This is where the expats (whities) hang out with a smattering of rich Tanzanians.  It occupies probably the best bit of real estate in Dar. There is a whole range of accents/languages around me but in reality it could be any upmarket beach side pub in Australia.

The whole trip I have been busting to see some wildlife and everybody keeps telling me their stories and showing photos.  Let’s be precise,  I have seen a mother and baby elephant up quite close, in the far distance, and I mean far, I have seen 1 giraffe and 2 zebras, there have been hoards of baboons, 1 squirrel and 2 unidentifiable antelope things disappearing into the bush. That is it and it is pathetic compared to everyone else’s stories including a cheetah wandering through the driller’s camp. I am very disappointed and have sunk to taking photos of people’s pictures on their mobile. When I return in July I will be the person in charge so I will be co-opting the game scout to help me see more.

Local food is not quite bland and not particularly exciting.  A lot of meat, bbq, rice, and a red slightly spicy sauce and that seems to be it.  I’m sure Dar has some delights, being the port city, there will be a real fusion of food from around the Indian Ocean but that will have to wait for next time. One of their traditional foods is ungali, this is almost like a hot bread dough but made out of corn, an acquired taste I think but take it away from the average Tanzanian and they are very unhappy. I have not had the slightest sign of a belly bug though beeing warned that everyone end’s up with the “trots”.

So that’s about it, my last post for this trip. Looking back I can reconcile mining exploration going on in such a stunning area but one of things I feel most uncomfortable about is the relationship between the white man and the black man.  A wild generalisation here but the white man is all too willing to denigrate and distrust the black man despite their openness and friendliness but the black man is all too willing to subjugate himself either because of inferiority or desire to be seen in a good light.  This does not sit well with me and I know it is all about wealth, power and tradition but I like relationships to be equal and trusting….

So thanks for reading I hope it was interesting and not too indulgent and you never know I might pick up the pen again on my next trip. Oh yes one last thing Khaki, let me tell you about khaki.  I hate it and can assure you that I am not about to start wearing it, it seems to be the uniform - that outdoor type clothing with zips, pockets and flaps.  There is no way in the world that I will be caught dead in it!